Beyond the Bomb: My Unexpected Love Affair with Hiroshima

Hiroshima was on my list for one reason: to visit the site of the atomic bomb and see the museum. I’d read online forums where travelers warned others not to expect much from Hiroshima, so I went with moderate expectations. Well, they were wrong! My weekend visit left me moved, excited, and surprisingly refreshed despite a packed agenda.

I should warn you—this isn’t an itinerary post. While I plan to share a detailed itinerary separately, I wanted to highlight seven aspects  I loved most about this trip.

Going Beyond The City of Hiroshima – Kurashiki

While researching my trip, I discovered Kojima and Kurashiki, the home of Japanese denim. I’ll keep it real with you—it was a packed schedule, and I haven’t traveled at this pace in a while. But I’m so glad I ventured beyond Hiroshima city! I decided to check out Kurashiki by detouring on my way to Hiroshima from Tokyo. When I got off the train and looked at the city ahead, I started questioning my choices as it looked like just another small town.

But then I reached the Bikan Historical Quarter, a preserved white-walled town center that served as a historical commercial and political hub. The traditional buildings, warehouses, and homes date back to the Edo period, when the district was a thriving river port and these distinctive white-walled buildings were constructed. I could have wandered the quarter all day!

The Kurashiki River runs through the historical quarter, and with 30-minute boat rides on offer, you might wonder if you’re in Venice after all—you’re in the Venice of Japan.

Then there was Denim Street! I saw more things made from denim than I ever thought possible: bags, dresses, jackets, pants, hair accessories, shoes, and flowers. I was particularly tickled eating a denim bun and having denim-colored ice cream on Denim Street. Apparently, I’m really into charming towns!

Meeting my Japanese Teacher

When I discovered that my Japanese teacher was based in Hiroshima, I knew I had to visit this year! Miho-san is a 67-year-old Japanese woman I’ve met with most Mondays for Japanese lessons over the past eight months. I’m not the best student given my work schedule, but I do show up fully for that hour on Mondays.

She took the time to show me around the area, and it was delightful meeting her in person and chatting about life and everything in between. She’s funny, opinionated, and genuinely curious about the world.

It’s tough to make Japanese friends when you don’t have the language skills, so this was a wonderful window into what that could look like. On a rainy Saturday in May, two women from very different backgrounds and generations spent eight hours exploring, eating, laughing, and sharing life stories. Those hours will remain a core memory from my time in Japan.

Exploring Saijo and Kumano in Hiroshima Prefecture

We’d planned a day outdoors, but as the trip approached, the weather forecast indicated rain all day. So Miho-san came up with an alternative, and to be honest, I didn’t research the options she presented. This was very unlike me, but I decided to trust the local and go with the flow. Miho-san picked me up at the train station, and off we went to explore two towns I’d have never visited otherwise: Saijo and Kumano.

Saijo is famous for sake (Japanese rice wine), and I got to explore two sake breweries and learn how sake is made. I also tried Umeshu (plum wine, which I enjoy).

Next, after more heavy rain, lunch, and one lost earring, we headed to the “Brush” place. I had no idea where she was taking me, but I was in for a ride! We drove to Kumano, the calligraphy brush capital of Japan!

This small town produces over 15 million brushes per year, known as Kumano fude, accounting for the largest share of Japan’s brush production. Unfortunately, calligraphy brushes are no longer as popular, and the town transitioned to painting and writing brushes in the 1960s to meet changing demands. By the 1990s and early 2000s, Kumano became internationally known for high-quality, handcrafted makeup brushes. Today, many top global brands source or manufacture from Kumano.

We spent a few hours exploring the Brush Museum, and if you’d told me how thoroughly I would enjoy this visit, I would have called you a liar! Perhaps it was because I had no idea where we were going or that brushes were made here, but I had a blast learning about the history and evolution of calligraphy brushes, engaging with interactive stations, and buying a makeup brush.

Buying Omiyage (Souvenirs) Fit For Presidents

During President Barack Obama’s visit to Japan, then Prime Minister Abe Shinzo poured him sake from Kamotsuru’s sake brewery. A photo of that moment is displayed in the sake museum shop. I tasted this sake as well as Umeshu and bought one of each. The “Obama” sake is called Daijingo Tokusei Gold Kamotsuru—rich and dry, with cherry blossom-shaped gold flakes floating in the bottle. Does it get more Japanese than this? It doesn’t!

At the Brush Museum, there was also a display of high-end makeup brushes sent to Michelle Obama and her daughters. While I didn’t buy the exact same brushes, it made me realize how much first families must receive in amazing gifts from around the world.

Miyajima Island & The Floating Torii

In every Hiroshima to-do list is a recommendation to visit Miyajima Island to see the massive floating torii gate. Standing 16 meters tall and weighing about 50 tons, the gate is made of camphor wood. Interestingly, it isn’t anchored into the seabed but relies on its weight and surrounding stones for stability.

It’s a sight to behold both at night and at high tide, when it appears to float on the sea. In my opinion, it’s worth the hype.

The Miracle Shoe Dryer

After exploring Miyajima Island during heavy downpours, I arrived back at the hotel with my shoes and socks totally soaked! You know how uncomfortable that feels! The problem was, it was only 8 AM, I had to leave the island in 30 minutes, and I had a full day of exploring ahead. Somehow, I had the wild idea to ask the front desk if, by any chance, they had a shoe dryer. I expected a no—because who really has a shoe dryer?

They did!

Next thing I knew, I was handed a portable shoe dryer. Twenty minutes later, both shoes were good as new and I was running across the street to catch my ferry to Hiroshima! What?!

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum & A-Bomb Dome

Last but certainly not least, my visit to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum was beautiful and reflective. It’s one thing to read about something and entirely another to stand where historical events occurred, see the images, and read the stories of people who experienced those moments. When the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima, 70,000-80,000 people were killed immediately. By the end of the year, 140,000 lives were lost out of a population of approximately 350,000. Staggering!

And yet, the city stands. The park is beautiful, the museum educational and sobering.

Reflecting on Hiroshima

This trip was one of my most meaningful travel experiences in a while, combining historical significance with unexpected discoveries, and genuine human connection.

Quick Tips For A Visit to Hiroshima Prefecture

• How Many Days : 2-3 days
• Best time to go: Spring or Fall
• Where I stayed: Miyajima Villa Hotel on Miyajima island and The Knot Hotel, Hiroshima
• Getting to Hiroshima: Shinkansen is your best bet as the airport is an hour out of town.