Awestruck at Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe

There was no question about it, I had decided long ago that I was going to see Victoria falls the first opportunity I got to step foot on Southern African soil. It was a non-negotiable.  So, as I planned my itinerary and looked at flights and dates, I had to make it work. I think you should too! I spent a slightly hectic 24 hours in Zimbabwe right after Cape Town and I’m here to tell you about it (+ add suggestions on how you can do it even better than I did). Let me tell you, it was amazing, humbling, exhilarating all at once.

 

Zambia or Zimbabwe for Victoria Falls:

Well, you can do a google search on this one, but the truth is that the views are better from the Zimbabwean side, but you can get to Livingstone Island and Devil’s pool from the Zambia side. However, it is less than 20 minutes to go from one country to another, so it’s pretty common (expected) that people see both sides. Exceptions might be where people are pressed for time, do not want to pay visa fees for 2 countries, or are simply unable to get a visa for both countries (as was my case – Zambian immigration authorities denied my application for a day trip visa for no reason. I still need to put in a complaint on this one…because how will they fix it if they never know?

Seeing Victoria Falls – One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World

Cue alllll the feels! You know when you look forward to something for so long and then it finally happens and you’re like….. that’s it??? That DID NOT happen to me with Victoria Falls, thankfully. I arrived at the falls at about 7:30am (it opens at sunrise) so I was one of the first in. As I walked through the ground I encountered less than 20 people! You walk from one vantage point to another (they’re numbered thankfully).

As you walk into the park, you hear the glorious thunder of the falls long before you see them, and you know you’re about to witness something amazing, right there on Zambian/Zimbabwean soil. Before David Livingstone found it and named it for the Queen, the locals called it ‘Mosi Oa Tunya’ which means the Smoke That Thunders. This name could not be more apt, I’d totally do away with ‘Victoria Falls.’ I first saw the mist, as I walked into the clearing, then I looked slightly to my left for my first real view of a section of the falls. God did a little special effect for me that morning by adding a rainbow. What a reminder!!

I put in some music that to me captured the moment and just stared for a few minutes before I continued along the path. Each view better than the last until I got to the end and I had all of the falls (okay most) in view. There’s a bit more mist here and a few rocks on the edge that you can sit on. There were four other early birds here on the rocks taking it in and conversing in Portuguese. One of them took these photos for me…one of which is now my favourite photos of all time because I think it captures the majesty of the falls and the smallness of me. For most of the time, we sat and just stared.

I feel so blessed to have witnessed this, and then I got to see it from a helicopter too!!! SOMEBODY PINCH ME! It’s these moments of wonder that inspire me to travel. Other times it’s in seeing beauty in the most unexpected places, other times it’s in food (haha, not so deep huh?), or in people I encounter, or in the overall experience. Gosh, I hope to never take this for granted! 

 

 

What I Did in 24 Hours

Zambezi Cruise: On the evening I arrived, I quickly booked a sunset river cruise. Growing up, I heard about the Zambezi being one of the biggest rivers in Africa. There are several companies that run these cruises. I got on the Zambezi Explorer and paid for the second of three options from basic to luxury. I was picked up from my Airbnb and we were taken to the where the boat was docked. We were welcomed with drinks and warm towels, fancy huh?

We boarded and were sat on the middle deck of the boat with the most luxurious at the top deck. Middle deck was more than adequate, and actually so was the bottom deck (Middle deck had better food though). Soon we began cruising over the river, spending 80% of our time on the Zambian side (this is why I say that in my mind I’ve been to Zambia). We saw crocodile, an elephant, and hippos as we cruised. Pretty exciting for a chill/romantic sunset cruise.

Victoria Falls Park: see above

Helicopter ride: Dope Dope Dope! Yes, the ride is a short twelve minutes. It is a very popular activity but it was worth it to me. This was my second time ever in a helicopter; my first was in NYC two years ago as a birthday treat. My pilot, Tom, has been flying for 35 years, I’m sure he does this 12 minute run several times a day, but if he was bored he didn’t show it, seeing as for most guests, it is a once in a lifetime experience. The views from the helicopter were pretty amazing and I got to sit in front right next to Tom and talk his ear off (as I do when comfortable).

Twelve minutes flew by and next thing we were landing! I don’t know how it happened! One second I was saying goodbye to Tom, the next second; I was picking myself (and my dignity) up from the floor. Yes, I fell out of the helicopter on my way out, but I still got a picture looking like nothing happened. The helicopter rides cost $150 a person regardless of the company you go with! This was the last thing I did before heading off to the airport.

What to With An Extra Day or Two

Book a Boma Dinner – Folaswaka gave me this tip but I procrastinated and tried booking this at the very last minute. They were sold out! It is a dinner & drum show at the Boma Restaurant. They serve a four course dinner and you get to try different game. It costs $45 a person excluding drinks. I hear the entertainment is great. They call it an ‘African’ extravaganza. Ok, I personally dislike how this implies that this one night captures Africa. Africa is too diverse for this, but I reckon it is a good introduction as it has great reviews.

Activities for the Adrenaline Junkie: Ziplining (ok I don’t consider this hair-raising but to each his own), White water rafting, Bungee Jumping, and Gorge Swinging over the falls are some of the activities available in the area. I strongly considered the swing but opted for the helicopter ride. If I went back, I’d do the swing. Two of the biggest companies to book these activities with are Shearwater and Wild Horizons. They’re both similarly priced and to be honest, activities in Vic Falls cost a pretty penny.

Go Across to the Zambian Side: Go to Livingstone Island which I hear is the best vantage point to see the spectacular show that is Victoria Falls. It is also the place where David Livingstone first had a glimpse of the smoke that thunders. Otherwise, be a total daredevil and swim in devil’s pool (on the edge of the falls)!!!

Go on a Day trip to Botswana: Whether you do a day trip, or an overnight trip Botswana makes a great stop on this adventure. Chobe National Park is famous for lion and elephant population. It is only 70km from Victoria Falls to the Botswana Border. A day trip costs about $170 (again not cheap) but people have done for one or two nights as well. Any of the companies above can arrange this for you.

Getting There:

There are direct flights from Cape Town to Victoria Falls (on South African Airways) but those were pricey so I went about it by Flying from Cape Town to Johannesburg, and Johannesburg to Victoria Falls. You can also fly from Johannesburg to Livingstone Zambia. From Johannesburg you can fly South African Airways, British Airways, FastJet, Hahn Air Systems and Kulula airlines. My airfare ended up being expensive because I booked late. If I could give ONE tip (okay two!), it would be to book as far in advance as possible and based on the horror stories I read, I would not recommend flying Zimbabwe’s flagship airline.

Where to Stay

Victoria falls town (where I stayed) in Zimbabwe is a pretty quiet town. Aside from tourism, it isn’t the most ‘happening’ place. There are hostels, and bed & breakfast and there are nicer up-market lodges (for example the Tongabezi) with some having views of the falls. I kept it simple and stayed at an Airbnb that was basic but adequate.

Livingstone, on the Zambia side for example apparently has more of a ‘town’ feel. So if this is a determining factor for you, I’d say stay in Livingstone.

 

Other Random Facts:

1. Take USD (different denominations) with you if you stay in Zimbabwe, as there is a currency shortage
2. Unemployment is rather high in Zimbabwe, sadly I met a few well-educated Taxi drivers
3. Activities are not cheap (I said it before)
4. In the rainy reason you definitely need a Poncho to go closer to the falls and there’s more mist

 

If you have the chance, please go, have a blast, and tell us about it! Have you been? What did you do? How did you find it? Looking for more about this series? See my pre-departure post here, Itinerary here , and my feelings about Cape Town here! I still have to write about my safari and Mauritius to close out these series. Anything else you’d like to read about? Let me know!

 

Till Next Time,

Dee.