My Road Trip Through New Zealand’s South Island
The images that first drew me to New Zealand were undoubtedly from its South Island. While I think the North Island deserves some love, the South Island is spectacular, and I only saw a fraction of what it has to offer. The best way to get around is by renting a car because of the flexibility it affords, but one can see a lot getting a pass on one of the main buses as well. I wasn’t keen on driving on the other side of the road solo, but I’m so glad I did.
Christchurch
I spent half day in this city. In February 2011, Christchurch experienced a devastating earthquake that left 185 people dead and the city in shambles. I walked through the central business district and I’d never seen anything like it. Building after building of devastation even seven years later: a cathedral, office buildings, and residential buildings. But there are signs of hope, rebuilding, and life. You see this in the Cardboard cathedral; a temporary cathedral designed pro bono by a Japanese designer architect, the first significant building reopened after the disaster. There are several other new buildings springing up all around. There are several other things to do in Christ Church but I was short on time, I was glad that I stopped here to take in a bit of this city’s history.
Kicking it Off With the A Scenic Train Ride
The train ride from Christchurch to Greymouth is in the top ten train rides in the world. But, as a procrastinator, I tried to buy a ticket one day in advance. Well, it was sold out and missing it would definitely cost me money in reservation cancellations or changes. So what did I do? I showed up at the train station hoping for a miracle. Turns out everyone showed up for his or her booked tickets but then something happened! The man at the front desk found a double booking at the last minute. What a relief!
The train ride was beautiful in parts, and I quite enjoyed the commentary. However, the viewing carriage was always packed with people carrying cameras the size of my head (and then some) so I gave up trying to photograph the ride or even enjoy the view sans glass.
Hiking Franz Josef Glacier
When I decided to go to New Zealand, doing a heli-hike was a non-negotiable. There are two main glaciers to hike, Franz Josef & Fox ‘glaciers. I went with Franz Josef Glacier guides for this once in a lifetime experience. I’ve been told this activity should be booked way in advance especially in the summer, and being weather dependent, it is often cancelled/rescheduled. Be sure to plan an extra day in this area just in case. Thankfully, we had great weather (at least at the beginning) and our trip was not cancelled.
Before the hike, you sign your life away, get a briefing, and wear a hideous pair of pants (only if you come in jeans like I did) and more hideous water proof boots. I brought my own waterproof jacket and begged to keep it on instead of wearing theirs (my last bit of cuteness), thankfully they agreed. The guide walked us to the helipad, as a solo traveller I got to sit in front of the helicopter. After a beautiful short flight (less than ten minutes), the helicopter landed on the glacier and our guide met us. We put on some crampons and were on our way!
We spent the next three hours hiking, seeing spectacular ice formations, and learning about the Glacier. Those ugly boots were THE BEST water proof shoes ever! One of the most interesting things to learn was how it’s changed over time. No one knows how long it will be around for but I’m thankful to have had the opportunity to be there. No two days at the glacier are the same as it constantly changes, and its water is pure/safe for consumption. This was definitely my cue to take a few bites of ice. All in all a great afternoon and I’d definitely recommend the experience. Save up for this!
Best Drives
All of South Island is stunning but the drives from Fox Glacier to Wanaka, as well as the drive from Wanaka to Queenstown (via Arrow town) were some of my favorites. There aren’t enough words (or images) to describe the beauty at each turn, each one outdoing the previous one. I can’t tell you how any times I stopped the car to just take in the views.
Milford Sound
Some say it’s the 8th wonder of the world, but Milford Sound is a Fjord known for its towering peaks, waterfalls, and rainforest. I went on a long day trip from Queenstown with Great Sights (but I could have planned it as part of my road trip). It is remote, unspoiled, and stunning. After a few days of cloudy weather, our driver told us to keep our fingers crossed and we were blessed with perfect sunshine on our two hour cruise of the Fjord. There are backpacker vs. luxury cruises; I went with the nicer option. There’s an option for an overnight cruise here, and if you’re not sold on Milford Sound, look into an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound.
QueensTown
The road trip ended in the adventure capital of the world where I spent my last four days in New Zealand. The autumn/fall foliage in Arrow town (near Queenstown) is some of the most stunning I’ve ever seen. Queenstown is always abuzz with activities all yearlong. I literally ran out of funds here and spent the last two days happily cooking my meals and taking free walks. The adrenaline junkie will be fully satisfied here. Skydiving, bungee jumping, jet boating, kayaking, you name it!
Walks, Hikes, and Other Activities
There are many great walks leading to stunning views all over the South Island. Some are day long while others are multi-day hikes. I did a few free 1-2 hour hikes throughout my road trip, but I’d definitely do lengthier ones with more time.
Accommodation
I stayed at following accommodations during my road trip:
Night 1 – Christchurch – Break free on Cashel
Night 2 – Hokitika – Jade Backpackers – (this is a hostel but I got a private room)
Night 3 – Franz Josef – Franz Josef Montrose – shared dorm room with 3 ladies
Night 4 –Fox Glacier/ Lake Matheson – Lake Matheson Hotel
Night 5 –Wanaka – Bella Vista Hotel
Night 6 & 7 – Novotel Queenstown
Night 8 & 9 – Airbnb in Queenstown with stunning Lake Views
For my full NZ itinerary and things I’d do with more time and money, see this post. Before the South Island, I spent time on the North Island and shared my experience here. I also shared information on getting a rental car here. If I travelled with friends, I would look into renting a camper van (quite popular), doubling as transport and accommodation.
Have you been to New Zealand’s South Island? If you have, what was your favourite part? If you haven’t been, what are you most looking forward to?
Till Next Week,
Ms. Heels
